Такой тип фундамента представляет собой монолитную плиту с дополнительными ребрами жесткости по периметру, в некоторых случаях, например если строение длинное, сооружаются дополнительные ребра вдоль длинной стороны дома.
Он является хорошей альтернативой глубоко заглубленному ленточному фундаменту на слабых грунтах и в северных районах, где стоимость заложения ленточного фундамента довольно высока из-за большой глубины промерзания. В таких случаях будет более целесообразно использовать плитный фундамент с ребрами жесткости.
В зависимости от назначения, плитный фундамент с ребрами жесткости используется в двух различных вариантах:
- с ребрами жесткости вниз
- с ребрами жесткости вверх
Теперь рассмотрим подробнее оба этих вида.
Плитный фундамент с ребрами жесткости вниз
Используется в основном вместо обычного плитного фундамента для экономии материала, то есть плита делается тоньше, а прочность компенсируется ребрами жесткости, которые усиливают плиту по периметру (обычно под несущими стенами), где сосредоточена максимальная нагрузка.
Данный тип плитного фундамента чем-то напоминает ленточный мелкозаглубленный фундамент, монолитно залитый поверх плитой. Ребра жесткости с плитой должны быть единым целым, то есть монолитом. К армированию такого типа фундамента необходимо отнестись с повышенной внимательностью.
Технология заложения такого фундамента проста. Выкапывается грунт по размерам будущего фундамента, затем выкапывается траншея, где будут ребра жесткости у плиты. Сооружается опалубка при необходимости и песчаная подушка, затем связывается арматура вязальной проволокой и все это заливается бетоном марки не ниже М200. Ну и не забываем о том, что основную свою прочность бетон набирает через 28 суток после заливки.
Технология вязки арматуры для фундамента подробно описана в одной из моих статей, поэтому я не буду на этом заострять внимание.
Плитный фундамент с ребрами жесткости вверх
Используется, так же как и предыдущий тип - для экономии материала. Сама технология заложения плитного фундамента с ребрами жесткости вверх никакой экономии, по сравнению с фундаментом, рассмотренным чуть ранее, не принесет, но в дальнейшем он позволит сэкономить на возведении цоколя, так как ребра жесткости, направленные вверх, и будут выполнять его функцию.
Залить фундамент такого типа, так же как и предыдущего, желательно монолитом, строго соблюдая состав бетона и пропорции. Вот здесь как раз и могут возникнуть некоторые трудности. Как видно из схемы, для этих самых ребер необходимо соорудить опалубку, но так как плиту желательно заливать вместе с ребрами за один раз, часть опалубки придется сооружать «на весу».
Мало того, что опалубка должна «висеть» на определенной высоте от грунта, она должна быть закреплена таким образом, что бы при заливке бетон не вытолкнул ее вверх, нарушив тем самым геометрию фундамента и увеличив расходы.
Помимо этого, заливать бетон в опалубку необходимо с определенной осторожностью, так как может сработать правило сообщающихся сосудов. Следуя законам физики, уровень бетона основной плиты, будет пытаться сравняться с уровнем бетона в опалубке, «вытягивая» его от туда. Говоря простым языком, объем бетона из опалубки будет выдавливаться в объем основной плиты.
Конечно, у бетона достаточная вязкость, чтобы при осторожном обращении он не вытек из опалубки, но если вы будете использовать вибратор, то это с легкостью может произойти.
Комментарии
А на сколько можно уменьшить толщину плиты, в случае с ребрами жесткости вниз, при отливке плиты размером 10м×20м для бассейена с глубиной 2м?
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